Travel Diary: Spain

We just returned from our first trip to Spain! There is a special kind of magic that comes from discovering a beautiful new place for the first time. It’s as if all your senses are heightened. No matter how many wonderful return trips you might take, nothing will ever quite top the first. Our week in Spain felt like we were suspended somewhere between a fairytale and a dreamy European film. Tumbling flowers over endless stone walls, the smell of jasmine, olive and lavender, wandering down narrow streets in storybook villages, swimming in the Mediterranean, delicious meals outside with views that felt as if we had stepped into a painting. It was idyllic on so many levels and exceeded all expectations. I was nostalgic for our days together before they were even over. I tried to live in the moment while managing to take 100s of photos so I could return again and again in my memories. For many years I regretted my choice not to study abroad in college and see so much of the world, but now I’m grateful to discover it all with Jimmy by my side. He is my favorite travel companion! Let me share the details of our itinerary and answer some of your travel questions.

Dinner at La Fortaleza at Cap Rocat, Mallorca

Before diving in, this trip was planned with the help of Patty Ehinger with Local Foreigner. We’ve worked with Patty for three years and the trips she has planned have been some of my favorite days/weeks of my life. She is exceptional at what she does and I can’t recommend her enough. She does charge an hourly rate and upfront fee and specializes in luxury travel. Every detail is so well thought out and planned that all that is left for us to do, from the moment we arrive, is enjoy ourselves.

Here is our itinerary:

Day 1-2: MADRID

STAYED:

Mandarin Oriental - We loved this location, we could walk to everything, yet were still tucked away from the hustle and bustle. The hotel was beautiful, as expected, and the service was top notch. We had breakfast in the atrium, afternoon drinks in the garden, and dinner before the concert on our second day. The food was very good. I definitely recommend going for breakfast or dinner if you are in Madrid, even if not staying there. They also do afternoon tea.

FOOD:

LUNCH - Other than the hotel we had lunch at Sobrino de Botin, supposedly the oldest restaurant in the world! The atmosphere is fun and vibe is super charming. It’s touristy though (lots of people taking pics of their food at the table) and the food is so-so, but that might have been because we weren’t that hungry. The portions are HUGE so it helps to go with a good appetite.

DINNER - Saddle, which is the current hotspot, Michelin starred, fine dining. Everything but our main course was excellent. If sole meunière is on the menu there is a very good chance I’m ordering it. It was just sort of ok. It’s a hard dish to mess up so it was still very tasty, but not the best I’ve ever had. The bar area had a great atmosphere and I believe you can get tapas there, if we went back, that’s the route we would go.

TAPAS - We skipped a reservation for lunch on day 2 in favor of Mercado de San Miguel, a 100 year old food market with tons of vendors selling tapas, the best Iberian ham, the olive bar of my dreams, fish, wine and baked goods. It was worth navigating the crowds to sample a whole variety of foods.

SIGHT SEEING:

El Retiro Park - This was a short walk from the hotel and simply stunning! We spent several hours strolling through, stopping for coffee and people watching. There is a pretty pond where you can rent a row boat. Lots of street musicians, fountains and beautifully manicured areas to sit and take it all in. The Palacio de Cristal was under renovation so we couldn’t see it. Another reason to go back.

Museo Naval - We spontaneously stopped in here to cool down and were pleasantly surprised. It is full of gorgeous maritime art, artifacts and incredible ship models. We both really enjoyed our visit.

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia - This is a more contemporary art museum, most well known for Picasso’s Guernica. There were no crowds and the museum isn’t overwhelming, making it easy to visit for an hour or two. There is a beautiful courtyard where we might have napped on one of the benches for a few winks. haha

Other areas where we walked around: The Maslasana neighborhood, Plaza Mayor, and Barrio de las Lettras

Overall we were both very impressed with Madrid. The architecture is incredible and the city is spotless. We went to see Ed Sheeran in concert and even the bathrooms at the soccer stadium were immaculate, not a stray piece of toilet paper anywhere. Everyone spoke English and the people were warm and friendly. Neither Jimmy nor I speak Spanish.

DAY 3-4: PUIGPUNYENT, MALLORCA

STAYED:

Grand Hotel Son Net - 10/10, I am obsessed with this hotel. Tucked away in the Tramuntana mountains, this place is everything I long for in a hotel. Small, only 31 rooms, stunning location, exceptionally decorated interiors. I love when each rooms is so thoughtfully designed with antiques, beautiful textiles and original art. Every room was different and the entire property completely captivated me. It’s an old finca (estate) turned into a hotel and you feel like a guest in someone’s home. There are archways of jasmine and lavender lined walkways, terraces for dining and views that look like paintings. It felt a lot like the south of France. The breakfasts were the best we had on this trip. The pastry tray alone was a work of art. Their pastry chef arrived in the morning at 4:00 am to make everything fresh and each day was completely different. We also enjoyed a couple excellent dinners here! We had spa treatments that were divine and enjoyed the sauna and Turkish bath both days we were there. I didn’t want to leave and will forever be comparing every other hotel to this one. (Airelles Gordes is still my favorite hotel of all time, but this is a close second).

FAVORITE ACTIVITIES:

la finca de Can Sivella in Binairaix - We spent a day visiting two of the most storybook towns on the island - Fornalutx and Binairaix and then hiking 7 km up a cobblestone mountain path that led to a restored finca where we had a private lunch overlooking the mountains and sea. This was our favorite excursion of the trip and one of the most unique dates we’ve ever had. Can Sivella is owned by a couple who spent 12 years restoring it. Only accessible by foot, up the 7 km mountain path, they managed to restore the home and grounds and now make their own olive oil and herb infused liquor and host private gatherings. They prepared us a multi course lunch (9 courses? 10 courses? I lost count!) both with local dishes and some inspired by their time living in Mexico City. We wandered around their property, played with their dogs, hung out in their kitchen and learned so much about Mallorcan culture and traditions, then cooled off in their pool, fed by water from the mountains. It was the most delightful afternoon and we felt like friends by the time we left. I can’t recommend this experience enough. We were led by our guide Martin from Martin Walks.

Son Moragues in Valldemossa - Another excursion we LOVED was a visit to Son Moragues for an olive oil and gin tasting with a picnic lunch on one of the oldest olive oil groves (700 years old) and finca’s in Mallorca and the former home of the Archduke of Austria. Our tour guide was so knowledgeable and the scenery was breathtaking. We had fog roll in during our tour giving the whole place an air of mystery. And again, we learned SO much and had the best time! Also, highly recommend! Their olive oil is delicious too.

We had time to explore a couple other charming towns that had lots of wonderful shops to find souvenirs and gifts for family back home. We loved Deià and Valldemossa and would recommend visiting both.

DAY 5-7: Cala Blava, Mallorca

STAYED:

Cap Rocat - For the second part of our trip we exchanged mountain views for the sea. Cap Rocat is a Moroccan themed hotel in a restored military fortress on a secluded cliffside overlooking the sea. A completely different feel from Son Net, one is more charming and cozy and the other more refined and unique. Cap Rocat is a White Lotus style hotel, that’s the best way to describe it. It’s a place where celebrities stay, the sort of place you expect to be pretentious but it isn’t in the slightest. I've had it on my travel wishlist for several years but after Marianne Simon shared her visit last year, I knew I needed to move it up. Let me give a honest review, the good and the bad…

We had an AMZING time. The personal breakfasts delivered each morning in a wicker hamper and set up on our private terrace were amazing, the Sea Club for dinner was a dream and the 12 course tasting menu at La Fortaleza was probably the most romantic dinner of my life. We loved our day at the beach and the pool. The spa experience deserves a post all its own, I’ve never experienced anything like that in my life. We were very much the best version of ourselves, happy, tan, well fed and relaxed.

However…I would be remiss not to also include a negative we encountered. Let’s start with the arrival. We were greeted with warm towels and drinks. Pretty standard for a nicer hotel. But the warm towels smelled so musty which we thought was strange. Next we were taken on a tour of the property and then shown our room. Right away Jimmy and I started sniffing and there was a very strong musty smell. We couldn’t pin point it but it was strong enough that I didn’t think we would be able to sleep in the room. I called to ask what could be done. They said they were fully booked so they couldn’t move us but they would put in a dehumidifier while we were at dinner. While apologetic, they didn’t seem surprised. The smell was gone after that, so we slept great, but it was back the next morning. They re-did the dehumidifier while we were away and it fixed the problem but it did require us calling them. After talking with some of the staff they were able to rattle off rooms where this is a known issue that happens “occasionally” due to the old walls and high humidity. Our room, however, wasn’t one of those rooms, but nonetheless this is a big negative for me. Enough of a deterrent that I wouldn’t likely stay there again. For such a pricey property there really should be a better solution or at least an adjustment to our room price. It didn’t ruin our trip at all, just something we didn’t expect to encounter at a place like that.

FAVORITE ACTIVITIES:

Boat Day - We charter a boat for a day and lucked out with perfect weather. I also managed not to get sunburned so that’s a win-win. We swam, snorkeled and had lunch at Beso Beach Club where we might have been the oldest people but the location was so pretty and the food was great.

FOOD:

El Camino in Palma - We spent an evening walking around the historic center of Palma (loved) and then getting tapas at the best restaurant (the goat cheese, the tomato bread and the scallops - all a must). This was another favorite meal. You definitely need a reservation. The place was hopping, the atmosphere was on point and the service excellent.

We especially loved the mix of time spent in the mountains and at sea on this trip. We feel so incredibly grateful for this vacation and time together. I received some questions about costs and if if Mallorca is worth it if you skip the nicer hotels. Yes, a resounding and affirmative, yes! The charming towns alone are worth a trip. I highly recommend late May/early June so everything is in bloom and the temperatures are still bearable. As for how we got around, we didn’t rent a car. We used drivers to help us get where we wanted to go, but I think renting a car is very doable. Also, one week was perfect for us, we didn’t feel rushed. I don’t feel comfortable staying longer, so far away from home, without our youngest son, especially now that he has his driver’s license. The time will come for that. I would have liked 1 more day at Son Net, but otherwise I wouldn’t change a thing with the itinerary.

The Petite Fleur Collection